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Tales from the Saga

Robert "Ole" Olson


Jack Haley, Bob Olson, and a friend at San Onofre, 1949

To check the surf out is a simple thing to do these days. Either get on line to check it out or call a local report, a friend or just go and take your chances. Back in the day, you knew if it is winter you would go to a North or West facing beach and in the summer you would go to a South facing beach. (West Coast)

Getting there would be another matter. For Bob “Ole” Olson they would hop in their Model A Ford with custom surf racks and strap their boards on top, just like they do today. But the road, and the speed in which they traveled were completely different. Driving down Pacific Coast Highway from Long Beach to San Onofre would take a few hours if nothing went wrong with the car.

Stopping along the way at a market to cash in some Coke or Seven Up bottles to get some gas was typical. Gas would have been 15 to 17 cent a gallon then. Once at San O they would probably see the regulars who surfed there. Seeing the waves rolling in they would get their boards and paddle out. No Spring suits, just their trunks made of wool or cotton.

Riding the surf and not the board would have been the order of the day. With a parallel outline, boxy rails and a small keel fin meant late take-off were lip launchers. Landing face first and swimming after their boards and doing the rock dance when they got close to shore. It was good fun back then even though the boards were rough.

Robert “Ole” Olson is originally from Long Beach, California and has lived on Maui since 1971. He has been shaping since the 1960’s. Ole began surfing in 1948 and used to go to San Onofre and Trestles a lot. Ole taught woodshop, and always enjoyed creating things with his hands. As a teacher, he got summers off and made a few boards here and there. It was during his woodshop class in the 60’s that he came up with the logo that he still uses today.


Ole

Ole first shop in Lahaina

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